DENİZLİ/PAMUKKALE

DENİZLİ

Denizli is the commercial and transportation hub of inland region of southeastern Aegean Turkey. It is nestled against the hillside at the southern side of the plains of Büyük Menderes River. It's a busy place partly because of nearby Pamukkale and its travertine pools but mainly because it's the main commercial hub for the agricultural produce coming from the region. It's also the place where you probably need to go if you're in need of cash. 

Don't let its looks deceive you when you arrive at the otogar once you proceed beyond the main thorougfare and its dreary concrete facades which are repeated throughout the city, you find there's a lively market and all sorts of eateries. Since tourists don't really come here, you probably won't be harassed. 

See

As not being a very popular tourist destination Denizli does not have tons of stuff to offer. However, there are very beautiful parks in the city. The ones that are worth a look—also for some fresh air—are İncilipınar Parkı and Çamlık. There is one very famous museum which was the house used by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk—the founder of the Turkish Republic—when he visited Denizli. Also, there is a very important historical site in Pamukkale—the ancient site of Hieropolis. In that historical site, you can find a well preserved ancient theater and necropolis. Hieropolis Museum and antique site is well worth seeing. A bit closer by are the ruins of what once was Laodicaea. The main part of the ancient town is somewhat better preserved than that of Hierapolis. On the other hand; the theatre at Hierapolis is in much better shape than that of Laodicaea. Since it's along the dolmush route to and from Denizli (to and from Pamukkale), you could ask the driver to let you out at the turn-off and pick up a later dolmush to carry you on to your destination.

PAMUKKALE

Pamukkale, which has been used as a spa since the second century BC, literally means "cotton castle" in Turkish.

The travertine features have their origins in the shifting of a fault in the valley of the Menderes river (between here and Denizli). As the fault shifted, very hot springs with a very high mineral content (notably chalk) arose at this location. Apart from the slightly radioactive minerals, the calcium and hydrogen carbonate react to create calcium carbonate (also known as travertine) and limestone. This is what gives Pamukkale its whiteness and created the pools.

It can get quite hot in summer, a hat and especially sunglasses will certainly be very helpful against the sun and the reflecting sun rays from the chalky cascades.

Get around

Even when you're way on the edge of the village, you can reach everything (i.e. the village center and the travertine pools) on foot in about ten to fifteen minutes. 

See

The Travertines of Pamukkale

These are a set of bizarre calcium cliff bathing pools overlooking the town of Pamukkale. You can access them via a toll-booth, however tough pollution control regulations require removing your shoes in order to walk on them (so bring something to put your shoes in!), so the travertines stay white as ever. 

These petrified waterfalls/travertine are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The admission costs 20 TL per entrance. This price includes addmission to nearby Roman city of Hierapolis as well. Lower parts of the travertine cascades are reported to have better views than the top.

Day tours are offered for around 45 Lira (as of January 2010) including English-speaking guide, entrance fee to Hierapolis and the travertines (this alone costs 20 Lira) and buffet lunch. Different companies seem to offer similar tours, ask around. Such tours leave from the Pamukkale bus company office on the main street opposite the travertines, and the Koray Hotel. There may be tours starting from other places around the town as well. For those who rather not visit the travertines under the scorching sun, there are also night tours as well, which start from small guesthouses. 

Other than the travertines, places worth a look around Pamukkale are:

Roman amphitheater of Hierapoli

• The great (12,000-seat) Roman amphitheater of Hierapolis should not be missed, and lies just above the travertines.
• Swim with roman ruins in a large natural swimming pool located just past the topmost travertines.
• Another lesser known site, but one that holds a considerable significance Biblically is Laodikya, just 10 km (10 minutes on a local dolmuş) from Pamukkale on the Denizli road. It's mentioned in the Bible as one of the 7 Churches of the Revelations and even though it hasn't been reconstructed as much as the more famous sites like Ephesus, is a great place to experience the Roman history without the crowds. A peaceful way to spend a day looking at ruins but also the beautiful scenery there as well.
• Karahayit, the red spring is also 5 minutes from Pamukkale, not as big as the calcium outcrop, but worth a look.
• Kaklik caves are like a small version of Pamukkale, but in a cave, underground and are about 30 minutes from Pamukkale.

Karahayit

Kaklik Caves

Laodikya

Do

• You can walk down barefooted in the waterfalls from the village. The place is crowded when the tour-buses arrive. No shoes are allowed on the travertines. If you don't want to walk back to top, you can use the buses dropping off people back to top, which depart from near lower end of the travertines. You should wear swimming suit. A lot of people bath in the baths here.
• It is also worth making the effort to get to the remains of the ancient city of Aphrodisias—one of the best preserved Roman sites in southeastern Aegean. You can rent a van from Denizli to get there. Local bus companies will arrange bussing for 30-40 TL.
• Bathe in the mineral hot springs. This is an enclosed pool, with additional entrance fee of 25 TL as of July 2011, above waterfalls.
• Of moderate interest might be visiting Denizli. It's a bit dull but there's a lively market.

Buy

The Pamukkale/Denizli area is famous for its cotton and the homewares. These are becoming sought after world wide (Arnold Schwartzenegger decked out his house in curtains and furnishings specially made in Denizli - so the story goes!) and the best place to go is the town of Buldan, about 30 minutes drive from Pamukkale. Many of the other souvenirs and traditional Turkish wares that you can find in other parts of Turkey are cheaper around Denizli/Pamukkale because they are produced there. 

Eat

The best and freshest food is to be found in the small family run pensions, but for a great open air restaurant where you can eat 'borek' the Turkish pancakes and gaze across the valley, try Alis on the main highway just before you come into the town.

• Mehmets Heaven, on the main street near the Travertines has an excellent view of Pamukkale from his porch out back. Great food and well priced. Super nice owner as well.

• Kayas Wine House, Kale Mah. Ataturk Cad. No 3 (centre), ☎ 0090 258 272 2267. Recently started serving food, not only Turkish but also international (Korean, Japanese...) in traditional but trendy surroundings. Located in the centre of town, close to all the major hotels.  
• Lamuko's Lokanta, Main Street Pamukkale, ☎ 0090 542 390 8175. Japanese and Korean food in the centre of Pamukkale, next to Pamukkale Bus Company office. Delicious!  
• Kale Hotel, Atatürk Cad. 16 ((on the main street in the centre of town)), ☎ +90 258 272-26-07. This place has great Chinese, Korean, and Japanese food at an excellent deal. It's also got Turkish food, but is a great change if you'd like something other than gözleme, pide or kebabs. Entrees are around 10 TL and it has beer and wine.

 Drink

• Ayran is a salty yogurt drink similar to a salty lassi. It may be an acquired taste, but should be tried while in Turkey.
• The wines produced in the Pamukkale area are becoming quite famous and are winning awards for the quality and standard. Note that Turkish wine may disappoint.
• Raki is a traditional Turkish drink, generally served with mezes (tapas like appetizers, generally followed by a fish or meat dish). With an anise-seed flavor, it may be an acquired taste. Great with fish or any long meal as it is meant to open up your appetite.
• Efes or Tuborg are the go-to beers in all of Turkey, and are often the only beers available.

Sleep

There are small family-run pensions at the village south of the travertines. Most have swimming-pools filled with the warm greenish milky water from the travertines. They also offer very delicious Turkish food.

• Artemis Yoruk Hotel, Atatürk Cad. 48/A, ☎ +90 258 272-26-74 (info@artemisyorukhotel.com, fax: +90 258 272-26-75), [2]. Hotel just opposite the bus stop with a pool and a nice garden, and a rooftop restaurant which serves traditional Turkish food. Rooms with en-suite, TV, and air-con. Owners can speak English. € 12/€ 20 single/double rooms, including breakfast. € 5/€ 7 pp dorms without/with breakfast.

• Hotel Dört Mevsim (they also go by the name Four Seasons though neither affiliated nor has any similarity to the hotel chain), ☎ +90 258 272-20-09 (info@hoteldortmevsim.com, fax: +90 258 272-26-32), [3]. checkin: 7:30AM-11:30PM; checkout: 11:30AM. Hotel with free wi-fi, swimming pool, free car park, babysitting service, and air-con. They allow pets at no extra cost. They also have a campground on their yard. € 14/€ 17 sinlge/double rooms, € 10 pp dorms, all including breakfast. Visa, Euro/Mastercard are accepted.

• Kale Hotel, Kale Mah. Atatürk Cad. 16 (on the main street in the centre of town), ☎ +90 258 272-26-07 (info@otelkale.com, fax: +90 258 272-26-07), [4]. checkout: 11AM. A family-run guesthouse. Rooms with satellite TV. Roof-top terrace, swimming pool, free wi-fi, Ottoman Corner, restaurant, day trips and excursions. € 12.

• Koray Hotel,Pamuk Mah. Fevzi Çakmak Cad. 29, ☎ +90 258 272-22-22 (info@otelkoray.com, fax: +90 258 272-20-95), [5]. Friendly and family-run, with garden bar and restaurant and a large swimming pool. Rooms with satellite TV. The hotel can organize day tours, express bus tickets, plane tickets, and offers a transfer service.

• Melrose Allgau Hotel, Vali Vekfi Ertürk Cad. 8, ☎ +90 258 272-22-50 (sales@melroseresidence.com, fax: +90 258 272-31-20), [6]. A nice family-run pansiyon at the eastern end of town with nice rooms, all of which have air-con. The friendly owners serve cheap but tasty home cooked meals. There's a laundry service and a pool filled with spring water. They also used to allow campers to put up their tents. € 20/€ 25 single/double rooms, including breakfast. Credit cards are accepted.

• Öztürk White Hill Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Fevzi Çakmak Cad. 31. A small family-owned hostel.  

•  Venüs Hotel, Pamuk Mah. Hasan Tahsin Cad. 16, ☎ +90 258 272-21-52 (info@venushotel.net, fax: +90 258 272-29-93), [7]. A comfortable hotel with wireless internet access, a swimming pool filled with thermal water from travertines. Rooms with en-suite, and air-con. Staff can speak English. € 20/€ 28 single/double rooms, including breakfast.

Get in

By plane

• Closest airport is Denizli - Cardak Airport is 65 km or 1 hour away and there are flights twice daily to Istanbul.

• Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport is another alternative to the area. Pamukkale is 252 km from the airport, a drive of about 4 hours (4-1/2 to 5 hours by bus)or 6-7 hours by train. (Check TCDD [1] for train schedule.)

By train

The nearest train station is in Denizli, which currently has services from Izmir only. The Istanbul service (Pamukkale Express) was suspended in 2008, presumably because of track renovations, and it is not certain when/if the services will re-start. 

By bus

Bus to Pamukkale/Denizli can be found from almost all the cities of Turkey. Bus services include water, hot drinks and a snack. There are virtually no bus companies that take you directly to Pamukkale despite what the ticket sellers tell you. The bus will drop you in Denizli and then you have to get on the free minibus to Pamukkale (about 20 km away). 

By dolmuş

From Denizli bus station, take a dolmuş, a type of cheap communal taxi that usually seats about 10 (but it's possible they'll squeeze in more), from nearby Denizli. Frequent mini-buses serve the village of Pamukkale in a 20 minute ride. It cost 2 YTL per trip.

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